Malaysia

For a country that was not initially on our itinerary, Malaysia definitely exceeded our expectations in a lot of different ways.


Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Our first stop in Malaysia was the dynamic city of Kuala Lumpur, the country’s capital. We arrived with absolutely no knowledge of what to do in this city, and only a slight idea of how long we’d stay. Despite having planned our trip itinerary for weeks on end before arriving in SE Asia, we decided to ditch the plans and see where the wind took us. After Kuala Lumpur, we didn’t have a clue where we’d be.

Neither Sloan or I are very fond of cities. Ironically we find that there is little to do, since we prefer natural beauties like waterfalls and beaches. However, KL surprised us.

Our first day started out pretty slow. We visited the clock tower, Merdeka Square, and the Masjid Jamek (one of the oldest mosques in KL), all of which were within a 5-minute walk from our hostel.

We continued walking aimlessly throughout the city until we literally stumbled upon Central Market. We ended up spending a while looking through all the shops in the market and grabbing some delicious pineapple fried rice for lunch. Added perk: we each bought a pair of knockoff RayBans for $3 here.

Another huge plus about being in a major city is that you can typically find any type of food you’re craving. If you know Sloan and his choices in food at all, you know that he chose a Mexican restaurant for dinner (likely because there was no Zaxbys) so we enjoyed some red-wine queso and burritos. Gotta take advantage of it when you can, I suppose.

Afterwards, we walked to KLCC park and saw the Petronas Twin Towers begin to light up as the sun set. Pictures do not do it justice, and honestly neither do words, but it was spectacular. We decided to change our viewpoint and got drinks from the SkyBar at the top of Trader’s Hotel to watch the city illuminate as the sun set.

The following day we decided to go to the Batu Caves just north of the city, but not before we searched the entire city high and low for açai bowls (and successfully found them!) The caves were clearly touristy, but still awesome to see. Imagine huge limestone caves on the outskirts of a massive city… not something you see every day. We climbed the 272 stairs to get to the entrance and explored alongside all the other tourists.. and probably an equal amount of monkeys.

Unfortunately we didn’t have enough cash on us to check out the Dark Cave, but if anyone is visiting these caves in the future, make sure you do! It has over 200 species living inside it, including the world’s rarest spider, which can only be found in this one single cave. It honestly pains me to type that because of my irrational fear of spiders, but it still is a pretty cool fact.

Between the food, the skyline, and the caves, there wasn’t much more we could’ve asked for from this place, but we’d love to come back someday, KL!


Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia

While in Kuala Lumpur, we decided that our next stop needed to be somewhere slower. We settled on the island of Penang, Malaysia. Another place we had zero prior knowledge of, but decided to check out anyways. It’s already becoming a trend of the trip. After a literal 20 minute (and $10, might I add) flight, we were there. We checked into The Frame Guesthouse, which was a very trendy, minimalist-styled hostel. But the beds… wow, the beds were unreal comfy. Our first day consisted entirely of aimless wandering. There is an abundance of street art throughout the town, along with plenty of bars, cafes, and cute shops. Our favorite finds were a little gem called Wheeler’s Coffee, an Upside Down Museum, and the Chew Jetty which was perfect for people-watching.

We chose to check out the famous Yeap Noodles for dinner. It was a hole-in-the-wall restaurant with only about six 2-person tables, and there was absolutely nothing special about the ambiance here. The restaurant was famous for making its own noodles, though, and for having good food and great prices. We didn’t expect to love it this much, but if it tells you anything, we ended up coming back here for a meal every single day that we spent in Georgetown.

We both agreed that the best one we tried was the black pepper chicken noodles. Each dish costs less than $2, you just can’t argue with that. On our first night, Sloan went with the spicy chicken noodles and discovered what it really meant for something to be spicy. They warned him…

Our second day was much more adventurous and planned out. We headed to the Penang National Park on the other side of the island and hiked through the jungle paths to get to Monkey Beach. It took us just over an hour to walk through, and along the way we saw some crazy 6-ft long lizards and a few Dusky Leaf monkeys, which are endemic to Peninsular Malaysia (pictured below).

Once we actually reached Monkey Beach, we noticed that it was filled with a different type of monkeys – the crab-eating macaques. We got a few pictures of them but not before one almost attacked Sloan for putting his GoPro too close.

The beach was a lot bigger than either of us expected for a so-called “hidden” beach, so we spent a while exploring and hanging out. We opted for a boat ride on the way home to save us from the hour long walk back in the heat, but it turned out that we practically got the Titanic as our boat. Every time the driver tried to accelerate, the engine would give out and stall. Not exactly what you want in the middle of an ocean, but it did eventually get us to shore I guess.

That night we got dinner and drinks before going to check out another hostel that was well-known for being the ‘party’ hostel in that area. Well, the Tipsy Tiger did not disappoint. Within five minutes of being there we decided to play a game. There were 53 cards facedown, tacked to a wall behind the bar (a full deck plus a joker) and if you guessed the joker card correctly, you won 5 free beers. I jokingly pointed one out to Sloan and said “that’s the joker” before I even knew we were going to play. He laughed it off, clearly doubting me, and picked his own card. Wrong. So I confidently pointed to the card I had chosen…

Guess who won us five free beers?

I felt psychic after that so naturally we enjoyed the night, starting off by drinking our prizes. We met a big group of other travelers and had ourselves a night.

The next day was more of a struggle, one could say. We couldn’t really beat the day we’d just had, so we didn’t even bother trying. This was our first day of pure relaxation and it was fantastic. We ventured out a little to see the Botanic Gardens, basically so we didn’t feel like complete bums, but we were content doing very little. We DID get another meal at Yeap Noodles though, of course.


Langkawi, Malaysia

Way back when we were still planning this trip, we came across the tiny island of Langkawi and decided we HAD to put it on our itinerary. Upon more research, we saw that we’d be there during its peak rainy season, so we decided against it. Well, when we changed up our plans again in Kuala Lumpur, we decided that while we were here, we might as well give Langkawi a shot. Technically everywhere we’d been up until this point had been in “high rainy season” and from what we could tell so far, this meant it would rain really hard for about 45 minutes in the afternoon and then stop completely. We’d dealt with it everywhere else, so we could deal with it here, too. So we thought.

We decided to spend three nights in Langkawi. The first night, we were staying in a hotel right on the water with this cool concept of “tube rooms” which are exactly what they sound like: tube-shaped rooms just big enough for a bed with an amazing view of the ocean. Again, so we thought.

We got to our hotel with beautiful blue skies and checked into our tube room. For about 20 minutes everything seemed great. But then it started to rain, and I mean really really rain. It was an absolute monsoon and it lasted almost the entire day. Worse than that, our room was so small that if we opened the doors at all, everything inside – including our bed – got soaked from the rain pouring in. Our room also didn’t face the ocean as advertised. But still, that isn’t the worst part. No, the worst part was that there was no WiFi, meaning we couldn’t call an Uber to leave (there were no taxis here), we couldn’t communicate with the outside world, and we couldn’t even watch a movie on this rainy day. We couldn’t even leave the common room, or else our room and all our belongings would get soaked. When the rain finally did slow down a little bit, we rushed to our room and decided to try and take a nap. Unfortunately for us when we pulled back the sheets of our bed, we noticed something moving…

There was a snail. A SNAIL in our bed. With a nice, lime green trail of slime following behind it.

At this point, there was no other option but to laugh. We sat there, confused, but laughing at our entire sh*t show of a situation. The day was far from ideal, but we knew it made for a good story, and certainly one that we wouldn’t forget. That said, we were VERY happy to have only booked one night at this hotel. The first thing we did the next morning was pack our bags and head to the downtown area of Langkawi to find somewhere, ANYWHERE else to stay.

The rest of our days in Langkawi got progressively better. Our new hostel was much nicer and cleaner, and after taking a few tips from the hostel owner we rented motorbikes, ate delicious meals, and explored waterfalls and viewpoints. The weather definitely hindered us from doing as much as we’d hoped, but we still are satisfied with our Langkawi visit.


We are now in Vietnam as I write this and we plan on being here for about three weeks! (Don’t worry, I’ll split this country into multiple blogs, otherwise I’d be writing a novel). Two fun surprises about our adventures are coming your way, so keep your eyes peeled!

Myanmar

Our first country is officially checked off our list. I can’t believe how quickly that happened.

Myanmar was unlike anywhere I’ve ever been before and probably unlike anywhere else I will go, at least on this trip. The people of Myanmar are genuinely surprised to see a tourist. And honestly, we even got to the point of being surprised if we saw another tourist outside of the few in our hostel. It was a very new feeling.


Mandalay, Myanmar

Mandalay was our first stop of three in Myanmar, and it was easily the biggest culture shock. Before we landed, I read the directions that our hostel gave us from the airport. They literally said “find a bus and it will take you right to our hostel.” For a city of over 1 million people, I was a little concerned that it may not be so easy… but I was wrong. When we walked out of the airport, there was just one bus stand. We told them we were staying at the Four Rivers hostel, and without another word they loaded our bags and brought us right to the front door. That’s when we knew this probably was not a popular tourist destination.

The bus took about 45 minutes, and I swear about 42 of those minutes were spent driving through fields and passing roaming cows. Where were all of these people? Finally we arrived in the actual city, hungry and curious. Honestly, I was very apprehensive about what we would eat here. The area we were was a intimidating and there were no signs of any restaurants nearby. After searching online I found a restaurant called Mangia, which was closer to the more developed parts of town. Well, we soon realized that you can’t survive in this city without a bike or vehicle of some sort. It was NOT pedestrian friendly. Our 0.5 mile walk took us at least a half hour because there were no sidewalks and no one stopped for us to cross any roads. At multiple points we found ourselves sprinting across a street without a seconds notice, because it was the only break we’d seen. We held it together pretty well but I know both of us we’re slightly concerned at this point.

But alas, an oasis in the desert, we found Mangia. I don’t know how Myanmar ended up having such great Italian food, but we weren’t complaining.

Our second day in Mandalay was significantly better. We woke up, ate breakfast at our hostel, rented a motor-scooter and saw the few touristy things in the city. (Yet somehow, we were still the only tourists at them). We went to the Royal Palace, a few more pagodas, and watched the sunset from Mandalay Hill. It was our only full day in Mandalay, and that was enough, but we were happy we came.


Bagan, Myanmar

BAGAN. After a really unpleasant bus ride, we made it. The culture shock hit us again, but as soon as we found our hotel we knew we’d be alright. Learning from our last mistake in Mandalay, we rented a motor-scooter right away and set off to explore and see the sunset. Bagan is the land of over 3,500 beautiful pagodas, most of which were built a thousand years ago. We could’ve spent a week here and not seen half the pagodas, so we made sure to see the three most significant (according to some of the locals we spoke to): Dhammayangyi, the biggest; Thatbyinnyu, the tallest; and AnandaPhaya, the most beautiful.

We were heading to a pagoda which a hotel employee had recommended to us for the sunset when we were stopped by a group of young, local boys. They told us that they knew the actual best pagoda to watch the sunset and convinced us to follow them there instead. In the pagoda, we had to crawl up narrow, steep and cracking stairs in the dark to get to the top, but it was absolutely worth it. The views were beautiful, and pictures don’t do it ANY justice.

The next morning we woke up early to watch the sunrise, and wow am I glad we did. It was 10x better than the sunset in my opinion. We watched from the Shwe San Daw pagoda; it was slightly crowded as it is a well-known pagoda, but still incredible. I can’t really find the words to describe it, but watching the sun display the silhouettes of hundreds of pagodas and illuminate others was something out of a movie.

After a huge and delicious breakfast, we spent the day exploring as many pagodas as we could. We also found a floating bar and, of course, checked it out. We sat on a bamboo raft as a very scrawny kid pulled us to the bar, but not before he fell into the water. Guess we’re a little heavier than he was used to.

After a perfect day exploring, we decided that we liked Bagan so much that we should extend our stay here. Despite already having booked a hostel in our next city, we cut our losses and stayed another night in Bagan. It is such an incredible place, I’d urge anyone to go there (and low season was great due to the lack of tourists and cooler weather!)

On our last day in Bagan, we actually decided to change things up and take a tour to Mount Popa, the “city on a hill”. Our taxi driver told us a lot about the history of Bagan and Myanmar along the way.

  • Around one thousand years ago, 55 or so kings had these pagodas built to honor themselves and their families. Some were partially destroyed in earthquakes over the years, but most were still in great condition.
  • Myanmar was originally named Burma, until roughly 100 years ago when it gained its independence.
  • Myanmar was just re-opened to tourism only five years ago, so their tourism industry is still developing (which explains all of the shocked looks and requests for pictures that we’d been getting)

Something else that I think is worth noting – Sloan and I were pretty shocked to see a few KFC (yes, Kentucky Fried Chicken) restaurants in Myanmar. We started discussing this with our taxi driver and got onto the topic of McDonalds. If I would have expected to see any American fast-food chain in another country, it would have to be McDonalds and certainly not KFC. Well, our taxi driver confirmed that not only did Myanmar not have McDonalds, he had also NEVER HEARD OF IT. Considering McDonald’s international presence, this was so shocking to me that I had to at least note it.

We arrived at Mount Popa, and some 770 steps later we made it to the top. Personally I liked the view of the mountain from afar better. The top was just a few outdoor temples, and a beautiful view of the lush forests around us. The monkeys were really the highlight of our walk up… and the bathrooms were definitely the low.

All in all, Bagan was amazing, and we were sad to have to leave this beautiful place, but we were off on an overnight bus to the next city, Yangon.


Yangon & Twante, Myanmar

Since we had paid for the previous night at our hostel and did not show, we were able to check in and eat breakfast as soon as we arrived to Yangon (about 6 AM). We met some fellow travelers who gave us great recommendations for parts of our trip, including a “snake pagoda” in a small nearby village, Twante. Of course we were intrigued and made it our mission to check it out. After a walk to the river, a ferry ride to Dalla, and some excruciatingly tough negotiating for a tuk-tuk ride to Twante, we made it to the snake temple.

And no, they were not lying about snakes. We walked up to a pagoda in the middle of a pond with a long, narrow walkway to its entrance. Upon entering the pagoda we noticed no less than 25 anacondas, casually laying around the Buddhist statues and in the windows. WHAT… Growing up I never had a fear of snakes, I actually liked them, but I was definitely pretty cautious here.

At one point, I heard a thump behind us. I don’t really know where it came from but suddenly a 10 ft. long anaconda was slithering around on the ground right by us. It wasn’t very happy, and the monks started trying to coax it underneath a blanket while ushering all the tourists (aka, just Sloan and I) out. It didn’t like that very much and started hissing/striking at the blanket. I watched through the window, but naturally Sloan did not leave the temple and watched it up close. Eventually the monks were able to trap the snake under the blanket, but that was enough for me. This place was so incredibly off the beaten path and we weren’t trying to get a snake bite with no hospital nearby.

Our day ended with a visit to the Shwedagon Pagoda, the second tallest pagoda in the world, and a fun dinner at an American expat’s restaurant. Myanmar was, as I said, unbelievably different than anywhere I had ever been, but I’m so so glad we came. The people were so kind and the places we found were unlike any other I’ve ever seen.

Next up: Malaysia!